Nepal solo trekking in March

I remember exactly the moment when my friend Francesco told me about his trip in Nepal, his journey to the Everest base camp and how considerably easy it is. Slowly ascend, he said, and that’s it 🙂 It is how the idea started and this post is about what it became.

There are 2 main trekking seasons in Nepal. The best for the weather is from mid-September to November(peak October) and the second best is from mid-March to May with peak of April. Why I chose beginning of March? I do not like crowded places in general. At my time of hiking there were no big groups, although on the way back I met a lot of big groups. I cannot imagine hiking with ridiculous queuing. General rule for the weather was morning sunny, afternoon cloudy. Unfortunately and fortunately at the same time, there was unexpected(for this season) blizzard and lots of snow. I think It usually snows during the monsoon (summer months). Extra note, end of March is the beginning of season for Everest summit expeditions.

Every journey starts with first impression and my first impression of Kathmandu was not great. Coming from south-east Asia, where you hear from every corner: Massaaage? My friend, tuk tuk? Kathmandu was bit different: Brother, need a taxi? First time here? My friend, need a guide? Where do you go? Hashish? Yes, it is pretty much touristy in Thamel (area in Kathmandu where you can buy all the gear and most tourist stay). Also it was very dusty when I got here first time. On my way back it somehow cleared a bit and is quite good.

I had to spend a day in Kathmandu shopping my winter clothes as I brought just summer stuff. I spent about 210USD for everything. Sleeping bag and down jacket rented for 2USD per day. Pretty good, but boots almost didn’t make it till the end 🙂 It was quite close as the shoe laces cut when I arrived back to Kathmandu. Next time I would take spare ones. On top of that, my original plan was to hike in sport shoes – I think that’s completely fine, EXCEPT there was unexpected snow! Therefor I am very happy I chose boots over trainers as it would be possible, but quite freezing.

When I was ready I decided to go by Jeep, cheap, to the beginning of my journey, to Salleri, which is 2-4 days from where most people start – Lukla, where there is one of the most dangerous airports in the world (really short runway). When I got to the bus station and got my ticket for 1400 rupees, I expected proper Jeep with my own seat. It was kind of proper Jeep, but it was overpopulated. Jeep for 7 tops, we were at one point 10 people (9 official seats). I think children would fit fine. Anyway, when we stopped for Jeep service I took my opportunity and bribed the driver extra 1000 to sit in front in my “own” seat. Not very proud of bribing, but it was either that or losing my legs on this 11 hour bumpy-jumpy-road journey with no space. Later I found out, people usually buy 2 seats for themselves – that’s a great tip as it is still 5 times cheaper than a flight(150USD).

When we were coming to Salleri I started to ask people around where to get a good lodge. One of the latest passengers was a mountain guide and he offered to me to sleep at his house – I accepted. That night I had a first insight into Nepali life and culture.

As it was out of season and also not many people start at this area, there were just few of us. I started solo, but I met Eva, Jyamchang, Ries and father and few other people. We caught up time to time in the same lodge or on the path. After while it felt like small family 🙂

Solo means trekking without porter and guide. You carry your own bag and you are responsible for yourself if something happens to you. There are plenty of solo trekkers and small groups you can always chat or team up with for a day or few. On the other hand I enjoy my own pace.

The journey between Salleri and Phakding, was quite different from what it was before. Not only more people, but the nature and views were different. You start in 2000m and then go to 3000m, back to 1500m and then again up 🙂 This allows you to see lots of green hills, forests, red rhododendron trees, people planting vegetable and in the distant you can see some white mountains to look forward to.

As moved along the valley I finally reached Phakding. My strategic point I was praying for days and dreamed many nights about. My heavy backpack had to be seized down as I took too much shit. Phakding was on my way back so I could pick it up easily 🙂 That’s what I thought at least, but when I got back and took that heavy backpack again, I thought that the hike up to Lukla was one of the worst, maybe because it was raining also, but I made it 🙂

Journey continues for few more hours and I reached one of the biggest town in Solukhumbu region – Namche. There are services you need here for your preparations and enjoyment. I have done my acclimatization day, which meant hike few hundred meters above Namche to view point, lunch and then back to Sherpa museum. Where you can find out more about Everest summit expeditions and also about Sherpa culture. There are plenty of photos to enjoy.

The night before leaving Namche(3400m), there was discussion among the trekkers what to do and whether to continue and blizzard was on weather forecast. I was bit unsure what to do, but I think all people continued further. After all I got stuck for few day in Dingboche(4400m), where I was supposed to have another acclimatization day.

I thought I will get rid of my headache in Dingboche. I thought it was due to cold/flue I had, but later on it appeared to be Altitude sickness. As I felt ok after 3 days in Dingboche, I was kind of ready to continue and I did. Due to blizzard and lots of snow, I had to adjust my original plan from Three passes for “2 passes maybe”. Instead of going to Chuckung(4700) and have better acclimatization I went to Lobuche(4900m). I wanted to reach Kala Pattar(5550m) and Everest base camp(EBC). Unfortunately this didn’t happen as I got sick and quite bad in Lobuche. As I researched bit about AMS, I knew I had the symptoms and I had to start to pay attention to my body.

The night was tough, when I got to the lodge, I had brutal headache and felt very tired. I decided to drink lots of water and eat. I manage to drink about 2 liters of water and pushed very hard to eat Sherpa stew, delicious vegetable soup. It was really hard, but I knew it was only chance, how to get better. It felt like heavy hangover – maybe lucky i practiced in advance for many years 🙂 It got better after few hours and I was able to fell asleep, but from middle of the night I got sick again and could not sleep rest of the night. Then in the morning I ate garlic soup and drunk lots of tea again and it helped. I was almost going to continue higher, when the helicopter pilots from rescue center came for lunch on their acclimatization trek. One of the guys saw me, we started chatting and he measures my oxygen in blood. It was 68 percent, way below normal level in this altitude. He says: definitely NO up, but either stay or go down. I decided to go down.

First 800 meters down and I feel way better, still have a mild headache and I am very tired. I stayed in Periche(4200m). I didn’t feel like coming back up the same way. I decided to skip second pass Cho La and go another 600m down to Phortse Tenga(3600m). There I feel great again, I am smiling, breathing happily and getting ready for my upcoming hike to Gokyo(4800m).

I have 10 remaining days, so I do not want to rush my climb and get sick again. I go very slow. Stopping every village for night with maximum 3-4 hours walking every day. I’m following this English guy called Charlie who has been coming to Nepal for 20 years and he had helped greatly after 2015 earthquake. He helped to re-build lodges and houses. He has been called “Papa Charlie” by nepali people.

Phortse Tenga(3600m) is “low” altitude town, there were lots of trees again, no snow. As I ascend higher it was beautiful weather in the morning with views and snowy in the afternoon. Dhole(4100) and Machermo(4400) were my stops before I reached Gokyo. As you can see it is not huge altitude difference for each day and stop. I was not sick this time and could approach Gokyo Ri(5357m) in good condition.

I wanted to have a great views from Gokyo Ri, which means I had to get up early and get there before the clouds arrive. Im thinking what time to get up to make it good. There is a record climbing sheet in the lodge. I see best time 37 minutes and tops 2 hours. I think 7AM start to go will be fine. It took me approximately 2.5 hours 🙂 the views were amazing. Unfortunately when i got there, it got really windy freezing and I couldnt handle the cold with my fingers and had to descend in 15 minutes, otherwise I would stay hours enjoying the sun and scenery.

Same day the way back, it was windy, but it had clear skies in the afternoon also. It was pleasant hike down and very enjoyable as I could see how the mountains around looked like when I was coming up.

After 2 days I reached Lukla. This is a small town where most people start as you can fly in and out for 150USD one way. The airport is one of the dangerous ones as it has small runway. Flights are not permitted unless there is visibility at least 2km. The airport operates in high pace even bit insecure. Basically in 5 (no joke) minutes airplane landed, people got off, guy had a coffee, unloaded and loaded backpacks, we got on, pilot speed up with bending to the runway and we were off the ground. Quite amazing speed and experience 🙂 After all it was quite nostalgic flight when I could see how the path I walked several days to Lukla.

That was end of my journey in Nepal. It cost me about 550EUR including hotel in Kathmandu, food, pots of tea and accommodation on the trek. I could have spent less, but I was bit ill and I was spending extra money for hot water for night and lots of tea. I also had 2 hot showers in my whole track! In addition there are 150USD for the flight and jeep 30USD, 50USD permits to park, 210USD for the equipment.

I walked around 200km up and down the Himalaya and had most days great, not only Gokyo Ri, but every day I saw huge mountains around me and that felt special.